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Author Topic: The Bustle  (Read 2595 times)
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CyrilSebastian

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« on: March 11, 2020, 03:23:11 AM »

Queen Alexandra of Great Britain     
 
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/572379433866463596     
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/524387950345631514   
http://www.edwardianprome...what-queen-alexandra-wore
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Butterbean

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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2020, 10:58:22 AM »

Ah, the bustle made for a charming silhouette, but it must've been difficult to walk in I think - most of the gowns were quite heavy at the back I believe from the additional fabric. 
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CyrilSebastian

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« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2020, 09:31:01 PM »

Princess Royal Victoria of Great Britain wearing a first bustle period dress.   
www.gogmsite.net/early_victorian_-_1837_-_18/princess_royal_victoria/princess-royal-victoria/princess-royal-victoria-wea-2.html
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CyrilSebastian

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« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2020, 12:35:57 AM »

Margherita of Savoy   
http://www.gogmsite.net/t...ita-wearing-a-very-f.html
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CyrilSebastian

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« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2021, 10:44:53 PM »

Princess Dagmar of Denmark who became Empress Marie Feodorovna of Russia   
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/84301824265151885
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CyrilSebastian

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« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2022, 11:40:27 PM »

Princess Thyra of Denmark   
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/84301824264729846
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Principessa

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« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2022, 04:47:16 PM »

I thought these were called a 'queue (de Paris)'?

Ah, learning something new today. They are the same thing, the English name is a bustle.

Bustle
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle


and

Cul de Paris / Queue de Paris (in Dutch)

https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cul_de_Paris

Loosely translated as:

"...The Cul de Paris (French: "ass of Paris", also euphemistically "Queue de Paris" or "tail of Paris") was a fashion trend in which the seat of the dress was accentuated and raised.

A Dutch translation from 1858 was "false bounce" with the explanation "former fashion drag". Then the second and third periods that the cul de Paris became fashionable were yet to come...."



"....This fashion emerged around 1700 when the manteau was strongly pleated over the back of the gown. The woman's waist had previously been accentuated with cushions or wooden and reed structures under the clothing, but the sides, the hips, had always been widened. Now the buttocks were artificially raised. The source of the phrase "cul de Paris" and the reason why the city of Paris was referred to are not clear.


Tournure (1885)
After 1772, the cul became fashionable for the second time. In the robe la Polonaise, the buttocks were again accentuated with pads of gummed linen or starched gauze attached to the waistband and pleated fabric over it. After that, the cul also became part of the robe l'Anglaise. Around 1780 the cul fell out of fashion again.

Between 18721876 and 18821886 the back of the dress was again accentuated. In the prudish Victorian era the word "cul" was avoided, people spoke of the "tournure" and thus in fashion history the first and second tournure is spoken of.

This was also a fashion in which ladies had an artfully raised seat, raised with cushions, in their dresses. The cul distorted a woman's silhouette but made the waist constricted by a corset appear narrower.

The 19th-century cul de Paris was one of the many innovations of the "first couturier" Charles Frederick Worth. He applied it as a "cul de crin" in the form of wickerwork where a horsehair cushion had previously been used

In both cases, this impractical fashion was only worn by ladies of the higher ranks....."




Cul de Paris with manteau and a hairstyle la Fontange (around 1685-90)



Cul de Paris around 1775



First tournure, around 1873



Second tournure around 1886

« Last Edit: April 15, 2022, 04:56:48 PM by Principessa » Logged
Principessa

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« Reply #7 on: April 15, 2022, 05:11:36 PM »

1874 - Maria Josepha of Bavaria




Princess Royal, Victoria:





Princess Victoria Mary ("May") of Teck







Princess Mary Adelaide of Cambridge. Duchess of Teck





Archduchess Gisela of Austria (later princess of Bavaria)






Archduchess Marie Valerie of Austria



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Principessa

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« Reply #8 on: April 15, 2022, 05:30:22 PM »

Princess Stephanie of Belgium (who married firstly Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria)





With her elder sister Princess Louise:




Princess Beatrice of the UK






Princess Alexandra of Denmark (later Queen of GB)








Alexandra with her younger sister Princess Dagmar (later Empress Maria of Russia)




Princess Dagmar of Denmark






Tsarevna Marie Feodorovna (ne Dagmar of Denmark) posing with her sister in law, Queen Olga Konstantinovna of Greece




Princess Thyra of Denmark (later of Hanover):





Princess Louise of Sweden (later Queen of Denmark)








Grand Duchess Olga of Russia (later Queen of Greece)



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Paulina

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« Reply #9 on: April 15, 2022, 06:25:22 PM »

Can you imagine moving around in all that fabric? Especially on a hot day?
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The problem with incompetent, corrupt, fascist government is incompetence, corruption and fascism,  not government (Jerome Paris - paraphrased)
CyrilSebastian

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« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2023, 10:25:58 PM »

Archduchess Gisela of Austria   
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/512003051398153678
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